Good morning

This morning was a VERY good morning. After a restless night's sleep and an early beginning, I was walking to the Peace Corps office. In my foggy state, I walked my normal trek through my neighborhood. Two little girls were just in front of me, dressed in their blue smocks (all children in primary school wear cute little smocks to school). One of the little girls turned around and waved at me. I immediately looked behind me because I thought she was waving at someone else, but no one was there. Her friend headed off in the direction of another school and she and I crossed the street and met up. She said hello to me and asked me in portuguese if I was a teacher. I told her, in Creole, that I was a teacher at ISE. We chatted a bit longer, then she crossed the road and said "txau." I crossed the road a little farther up and we met again. This time, we chatted about how old she was. I told her I was an American. I also told her that her Portuguese was very good. She said she learned it in school. Then just before she turned off to go to her school, she looked up and said I was "Linda." I thanked her because "linda" is Portuguese for pretty. I was very flattered. I told her she was pretty too. She smiled and thanked me. I told her as she veered toward the schoolyard, to have a great day and to study hard. She was one of those children who acted very mature with me. She tried to speak her best Portuguese thinking that I too spoke the language. It was a great wake up call. It absolutely made my whole day. So, this is bound to be a great week! Happy Monday!

My weekend

It was quite an eventful weekend. If you are one of my parents, grandparents, or just people who don’t want to know what a dangerous world I live in, please do not read any further…

So, again, it was quite an eventful weekend. On Saturday I went to visit some friends in Sao Domingos. My friend Adi made a bet with a couple of other volunteers that she could drink 1 gallon of milk within 1 hour without throwing it back up. According to lore, this is an impossible feat. Apparently no one has been able to do this, it is physically impossible for the body to do such a thing. Well, Adi, being the adventurous spirit that she is and unwilling to turn down a good bet, took on the challenge. As she was consuming her first liter of milk, people began running down the streets and screaming. Some friends were already outside and witnessed a crazy accident. In Sao Domingos, there is a pretty sharp turn near one end of town. Many cars drive very quickly on this part of the road because it is newly paved. Unfortunately, on Saturday, a pick up truck didn’t slow down enough and bounced from one side of the retaining wall to the next, then flipped over. As this happened, the young child in the back of the truck flew out. The father who was driving jumped from the car shortly after it flipped, then the other child in the passenger seat was pulled from the vehicle. Amazingly, no one was hurt. The truck was flipped over and was drivable even with a completely crushed roof. Even more dramatic than there being no injuries were the people of Sao Domingos. You see, in Cape Verde when something bad happens, everyone runs to see it. Women immediately being “wailing.” This is a very traditional, loud, crying that people do when someone dies. The women of Cape Verde will wail in this sort of instance too, even before they know what has happened. They just see an accident and the wailing begins. We knew no one was dead in this particular accident because the wailing stopped after about 5 minutes. Along with the wailing were all the people present for this accident. Children were running up to the over-turned truck trying to get a look. People didn’t seem to mind that the truck could have exploded or could have turned over further. No one worried about neck or spine injuries. They just dragged the people out of the car. Things are certainly different here. But I am happy to report that the police heard the wailing and made it to the scene of the accident in record time (for Cape Verde).

Speaking of police officers….. On Sunday I was on the bus in a busy part of town and all of the traffic stopped. Then I heard a girl on the street yell “sta guera” (it’s a war). Just as she said that and began running toward a crowd of people who had gathered in the street, a gun shot rang out. I looked up and saw a guy running away from the crowd followed by a police officer running with a gun in hand pointed at the other guy. Just as I saw the cop, he shot again at the man. Also, he was shooting at this man on the street with lots of people around. It was crazy, and done with complete disregard of those other pedestrians. The two men turned a corner, so I have no idea what happened next, but I was completely shocked. This is the very first time in my life that I’ve seen another human being fire a gun at someone else. I certainly don’t ever want to be that close again. Being that I was on a bus, I should have felt safe, except that a few weeks ago, some men in a car threw rocks at a moving bus and stopped the bus, a man got off the bus and the men shot him. Praia is getting more and more dangerous all the time. I’m not sure what’s going on in this town, but I am staying inside for a while……

A final faculty meeting

Monday night was our final faculty meeting. We had it at my house and I cooked some good ole' red beans and rice for my fellow colleagues. The food was good, the conversation was good, and the plans for the future are looking bright.

We discussed some of our frustrations and successes over the past year. Looking back, the frustrations were few and the successes tremendous. Deanna, our department coordinator commented on the difference in our department over the last 3 years. When Deanna first arrived at ISE, there had been no graduates of our department, there had not been a successful student teaching program in years, and the teaching staff was not stable. Today, we have a wonderful teaching staff, a fully functioning program, and nearly 25 students scheduled to graduate this summer. It's amazing to think that so much progress has happened in a short amount of time.

I believe that ISE, in particular, our department, have a great future ahead of them. I am happy that I don't feel needed here. I am glad to see that committed people are working with me and that those with a commitment are sticking around to see what happens next. It's an exciting time here at ISE, and just as the summer kicks off, I am thankful to have made it nearly one year in this country doing something so important.

Training of the new volunteers will begin at the beginning of July, making me an official 2nd year volunteer. It will be my turn to help with training the new volunteers. I'll get to see what I must have been like last year at this time! I'm looking forward to all that is to come. I can't believe I've been living in Africa for a year, it's gone by so quickly.....

a moment of bliss

This memorial day weekend I will be house-sitting! A woman who works at the US embassy has asked me if I'd like to stay in her home while she takes a vacation to Sal.

This morning I went over to her house for a quick tour and do's and don'ts of the place. She has a pantry the size of my bed room that is filled with American foods! She has a washing machine and a dryer, which I will be using to wash every piece of clothing I own. My clothes are always handwashed very poorly by me, so this will be a chance to get them clean and the dryer will hopefully shrink some of the stretched out clothes too! Other than that, she has about 46 verdandas that overlook the ocean. She has an entire third floor devoted to "entertainment" including DVD player, big TV, and the works. Finally, and most important to yours truly, she has hot water.... and AC!

This woman is a saint. Knowing that Peace Corps volunteers are poor and need some comfort every now and again, she asked me to stay in her house! God bless her. Really.

For anyone who has considered working in the foreign service.... DO IT! The foreign diplomats from the states get hooked up! They all have awesome homes, they have generators, hot water, AC, secruity guards, and cars. AND, they get to live in foreign countries and see the world. Pretty sweet deal if you ask me. If you are unsure what to next with your life, consider taking the foreign service exam and traveling abroad!

Lunch at ISE

The lunch at ISE is great. For 150 escudos, the school serves rice, a vegetable or salad, and some kind of meat or beans. There are a couple of meals that I just can't seem to get into: iska, mao de vaca, and tripe. I'm just not that big a fan of organ meat, as I may have mentioned previously on my blog.

On Thursday, I was at ISE all day long, so I decided to eat. I always ask what they are serving before committing to anything just in case it's one of the above three things. Well, on Thursday, I asked the man who works there what it was (surprisingly at that moment, no one was eating in the cantina, so I couldn't check out people's plates). He said it was "perna de vaca ku arroz e grao." So I thought, "yes, I'd love some leg of the cow with rice and chickpeas." As it turns out, perna de vaca is actually mao de vaca, cow hoof!!! YUCK! So, I get my plate with lots of rice, potatoes, chickpeas, and a cow hoof. I looked down only to regret not having a better grasp of the portuguese language. You see, what happened I was thinking in Creole, while the man was speaking in Portuguese! Nice mistake! Next time, I'll be more inquisitive!

Well, I didn't end up eating the hoof, although, many, many Cape Verdeans think it's just wonderful. They fry the hoof, they boil it, and they grill it. The little meat that is on it is supposed to be really great, but I haven't gotten up the courage to try it. The peas, potatoes, and rice were top notch, however! Just another day in paradise folks!

Education

I was at a faculty meeting the other day. We’ve been having our faculty meetings at people’s houses, which means that we get to visit with each other, eat good food, and get some business done in a less formal setting. It’s been really, really nice.

This particular faculty meeting was at a woman’s condo right on the ocean. It was really nice. It was new and had all the amenities, including a swimming pool and underground parking garage. Pretty swanky. This woman is pretty amazing. She is Cape Verdean; she got her Master’s degree in England; she was the president of ISE for 4 years; and she is the owner of the English Language Institute here. She is a wealth of information, so the meeting at her house was really inspiring.

I learned while we were there her perspective on education in Cape Verde. We were discussing the student teachers who had just finished their student teaching. We were talking about which students did well and which needed more work. This teacher began reflecting on the teaching history in this country. She pointed out that having education in a country is different than instruction. She said this in reference to the school popping up throughout the countries without qualified teachers. The teachers in this country are not required to have a college education to teach, so often times, the teachers are under qualified, especially in remote areas where teachers are hard to find. The point is that while Cape Verde is finding money to build schools, they simply have teachers who are instructing students, rather than actually educating them. Until we have more teachers graduate from ISE, we won’t have qualified teachers in the remote areas teaching students.
This whole concept of hiring teachers without proper educations seems foreign, but at the same time, I am reminded constantly of why I’m here. I have 3 students finishing their senior thesis projects. They each will graduate this year, adding to the pool of qualified, educated, dedicated teachers in this country! It’s pretty exciting when you think about the fact that I am training teachers….I mean, I know that’s what I’ve been doing the whole time, but for some reason, the other day, I was struck with this notion and understand more than ever why I’m here.

Bafatada

Bafatada in Creole means to slap.

A couple of evenings ago I was leaving the PC office on my usual walk home. Just outside the office three little kids were standing there. Two of the boys, who were about 9 years old were in a fight. But this was the kind of fight were neither boy really wants to hit the other and they are just dancing around taking fake swings at each other. It was pretty funny to watch. I noticed that the kids also had a big pile of clothing that they had clearly stolen from people at the beach. As I was walking I saw one of the house guards come out and pretend to walk past the boys. Just as he approached the boys, he turned and slapped on of them upside the back of his head. At this point I was laughing because the whole situation was hilarious. The guard then smacked the other kid as he was trying to run away. The third kid was long gone by this point. The guard quickly picked up the pile of clothes as the boys were rubbing the back of their heads in disbelief. With the stolen clothes in hand and boys shoes and shirts, the guard went back inside the gate from which he came and locked the boys out. They realized what happened and were yelling at the guard to give their clothes back. He didn't respond and just stood behind the gate laughing at the boys.

It was one of the funniest things I've seen in a while. Those little boys totally desrved to be reprimanded for what they did and for acting stupid in the middle of the street. I really appreciate the way that adults teach children lessons here. In the states, you couldn't really get away with smacking someone else's kid around, but here, it's done for the common good. I hope those little boys got a lesson that day that they won't forget. I know I won't forget what happened!

Holidays!

I know that in the U.S. we so infrequently get days off that they are treasured days of relaxation. In Cape Verde, I've come to dislike their love for holidays. They totally screw up my class schedule. This semester I am only teaching on Mondays and Fridays, which are exactly when the holidays fall. We began school in March, we just had a week off for Easter, then just last Monday was Labor Day, then next Friday will be some other holiday, which is a big festival in Praia (which I won't go to because foreigners are prime crime targets at these kind of things). This means that I'll miss another day with my students! Great. Don't get me wrong, it's nice to have days off, but so many days off gets annoying when you only teach 2 days a week and the days you teach are inevitably holiday days!

Please, everyone feel very sorry for me because I hardly ever have to actually work! I know, I know, my life is sooooo hard. Really, it's tragic!

student teaching

Much like in the US, students in Cape Verde must participate in student teaching in order to get their Bachelor's degree in a teaching field. In our English department at ISE, the students have been student teaching for a couple of months. The strange thing about student teaching in CV is that nearly all of the 20 something students are already teachers in high schools on the island. So basically we are working with them on teaching and how to do it well, but most of them are as good as we are. I have several students who have been teaching in high schools for 5 or 6 years. This means that we are giving them a grade on a skill they have been steadily improving upon for quite some time.

Being an advisor for this process is great and really inspiring because I know Cape Verde English teachers are good. They are meant to be in the classroom and they all want to be in the classroom teaching English. The best part is that teaching is not a last option here; it's a first option. Teaching is prestigious and valued. It's been a great experience, but I am happy that this semester is winding down! June 9th will be my last day of classes, and I'm not complaining one bit about it!

A gathering of English teachers

Saturday was a great day for English teachers in Cape Verde. It was the first gathering of English teachers to discuss the formation of a national english teacher's association. My roommate, Dianne coordinated the conference along with 11 other Cape Verdean colleagues. They were able to get money to fly in the English coordinator from each high school in the country. They also flew in a guest speaker, Mr. Abadou Abese Sow from Dakar. Abese is the president and one of the founders of the national english teacher's organization in Senegal. He spoke to us about the importance of an association and motivated the high school English teachers to really move on getting a recognized group formed. We had lots of speakers, including the president of ISE, the American ambassador, and the Secretary of State of education for the country. People seemed genuinely inspired and interested in holding another conference soon.

It was so nice to see so many teachers come together to help themselves. I was inspired by their commitment to change and their forward thinking. It was a great day. We had a great conference, great food, and we even sang a song together - "the more we get together, the happier we'll be"!!!!!!

It was amazing. This country is great. I am so appreciative that I could do things to help the confrence run smoothly. I feel like I was able to participate in something that will really change the lives of teachers in this country!

wedding photos

Sorry it's taken so long to post this. I have been trying to get pictures to upload for weeks! Here they are now!

Morgan and Holly are finally married. We worked hard and played hard over the wedding weekend in Destin, Florida! Everything was absolutely beautiful. I am posting there now and will put more up when I get them. I am soooo proud to have a new sister. I know Morgan is happy and that makes me happy. The two honeymooned in Jamaica. Now they are back to the real world. Morgan has a new job with Pfizer and will be spending time between Mississippi and Pennsylvania while he is in training.

The pictures turned out wonderfully. It was definitely a magazine wedding. The boys were straight out of J.Crew and the bridesmaids dresses were just perfect for the outdoor wedding. I'm just posting a bunch of pictures, so enjoy! They all turned out beautifully. The colors were just perfect. The day was just perfect in every way!

Sal at Easter

The pictures are: David and me, Nick and me, and Nick and David

Ever year on Good Friday, I head up to Purvis, MS, to spend the weekend with my family and friends. This year, I missed my favorite celebration, which I was pretty sad about. Well, I was sad until Thursday night when my friends Nick and David convinced me to fly to Sal (another island) for Easter. Even though it was last minute, I said "what the heck" and hopped on a plane Good Friday to enjoy a weekend with two of my favorite people.

David and Nick are the kind of guys who make you laugh even when you don't want to. They are the kind of friends who let you know they care about you all the time. They're just great guys. I got to spend my weekend relaxing. On Friday, we had some beers and dinner then got to hang out at Nick's just goofing off. Saturday we made our way to Santa Maria. The beaches there were amazingly beautiful. The water was perfect too. It was a little too cold to get in for me, but Nick decided to try it out! I wish I had some pictures of the beach, but I was afraid that my camera would get stolen, so I left it at home. I have some other pictures of the boys that I'll put up soon.

On Saturday night, I cooked my famous enchiladas. This was quite a process because I had to hand make the tortillas first, which takes some time. But, David and Nick helped with everything, so it wasn't so bad. HOWEVER, a couple of hurdles occurred as we were cooking. First, I was cooking some brownies. This isn't a problem, except the glass window in the front of the oven fell out of place, letting out all of the heat. So, I decide to try to cover it with cardboard. Then, I decide that this would work fine, except the brownie wasn't cooking at all. As I'm trying to figure out what to do, the gas stops. GREAT! Gas tank is empty. Nick and David have to carry the tank to get a new one. Then they have to bring the newer, heavier one back. Okay, mission accomplished and while they were gone, the oven cools down enough to repair the fallen glass. When David returns, he and I use pliers, knives, and teamwork to pull the glass back into place. After about 30 minutes, we were back on track. At any rate, we finally got to eat dinner at about 9:30. I'm pretty sure that my enchiladas were a hit. The boys ate several at dinner, more after we returned from our night out clubbing, and then the rest for lunch the following day! I'd call that a satisfying meal.

So, by Sunday, we were pretty worn out from the events of the previous day. This led to a rather uneventful Sunday, which was nice. We finally made it out of the house for a spaghetti dinner at about 8 at night on Easter. Monday morning came too fast. David had to leave before 8, which was super sad. I had a few more hours with my boy Nick, and then I too headed to the airport with a few other volunteers who were visiting the island and Robert (Nick's roommate).

It was a perfect weekend with two great people. I'll try to post a few photos from the weekend soon. Txau, ti logo.

Poverty

Sometimes in my daily life here in Cape Verde, I'm able to forget that I live in a very poor country. I mean, people go to school. Some people have cars and nice houses. People dress nicely even if they don't have money. In my daily walking to and from places, I tend to see the beauty of the people and the land. However, today, I was caught off guard. I saw something that made me uncomfortable and reminded me of where I am. I saw a little boy standing next to a dumpster. As I approached him, another younger boy was inside the dumpster. This little boy was handing his friend a half full bottle of water that he had found in the dumpster. And it wasn't enough that the children were resorting to this kind of scavenging, but they were doing it right in front of one of the ambassador's homes. This sharp contrast between wealthy and poor saddened me as I walked along the road. I watched the children as they continued to retrieve things from the filthiness of the dumpster, and I wanted to cry. These children need help. The kind of help that other countries should be giving. Unfortunately, the only help these children were getting today was the trash from an ambassador. I am reminded, just as I forget, that there is a reason I am in this country.

Ulisses

A student, a wonderful, sweet, smart, kind, interested student lost his father yesterday. Ulisses' father died of a sudden heart attack yesterday morning. I am overwhelmed by this information. Ulisses came to class today and told me what happened. I asked him if he would like to go home, but he said he'd rather be at school today. He was in shock and barely able to hold it together. It is so hard to comfort and console someone when such a major loss has occurred for them. Capeverdeans want to be with people when someone dies. They like to have large crowds of people around them, making them feel comforted. This society cares about community and togetherness. Ulisses is so special to me that I hate to see him in pain. I hate to think of him as he suffers. I plan to visit his home today with the other second year students. Although I have reservations about showing up at his home, it is the Capeverdean thing to do. And as I learn how to live as a Capeverdean, I do things that remove me from my comfort zone in order to make others feel more comfortable.

Theater

When you think about 3rd world countries, you probably don't think about great theater. That's fair enough, I don't really equate Cape Verde with excellent theater either. However, this past weekend I went to an excellent play at the national auditorium. It was about the history of Creole in Cape Verde.

First, the play began during the times of Slavery. The "Master" spoke in Portuguese and the slaves in Creole. It was pretty cool. As history progressed, Creole advanced. There was a part of the play where a local performance group danced and sang on stage. It was amazing. To watch the history of the country on stage was incredible. I was so impressed by the creativity of people who have so little. They are able to do an unbelievable amount with what they have.

Oh! I was sitting just behind the President of the country, Pedro Pires. He just walked in and sat right in front of me and talked to everyone. This is just slightly different than G.W. walking into a place! People were just saying hello and little kids were playing around him. It is soooo different here than in the states!!!!!!!!!!!!!! txau.

Cape Verde, again for the first time

Being back in Cape Verde after 6 weeks away has been different than I ever could have imagined. I got off the plane after 24 hours of traveling only to smell the ocean breeze, again for the first time. I returned to my home only to find dust everywhere, as usual. I walked through my neighborhood and all of the old feelings of familiarity were different. When I left, after 7 months here, I felt as if I blended in with my surroundings (even if others still noticed me). Now, I feel like people are again staring at the American girl. I feel conspicuous in a way that I forgot about. Also, Cape Verdeans have no problem telling you that you have gained a little weight. I was sitting on a couch for a month, so I gained maybe 5 pounds and everyone is pointing it out! Thanks folks. But here, it's a compliment, not a critique. When you are heavier, you are healthier. I understand that in theory, but hearing it stinks. I also have lost my swiftness with the language. I mean, I still understand and can communicate, but I forget words that I know I knew before I left! It's a little frustrating, but I'll be back in tip top shape before you know it.

The best part of being back so far was going to class this morning at 7:30. My wonderful students threw me a surprise party today. They made cake, pastels, and quiche. It was excellent. They made me big signs that said "We missed you, casey" and "We love you, Casey." It was soooo wonderful. They gave me presents and lots of hugs. I have a student, Alice, who made me 3 peices of "renda." Renda is very intricate knitting. The Cape Verdean women sell these for quite a bit of money because they are elaborate. These renda are similar to lace and they are to be placed on coffee tables and dining tables, as lace is in the states. A long time ago, Alice wrote in an essay that she makes renda. I told her that I wanted to buy some of her renda to remember CV. Today, she gave me it as a gift. I was so moved. The three peices she made are georgeous. They are elaborately made with flower shapes and they are yellow! I love them!

This has been a special return made wonderful by my friends, colleagues, and students. I am so blessed.

Going back

I want to post quickly to let everyone know that I will be returning to CV on Monday morning at 11:30. I'm out of here a little sooner than I had anticipated, but I'm happy to be returning to my friends and work in CV! Sorry, I don't have a lot of time. I'm off to Morgan's wedding this weekend!

Cape Verde... I'm headed home

I have just been cleared to return to my wonderful life in Cape Verde. I met with the surgeon yesterday, and he has given me the thumbs up to go back. I cannot express just how happy I am to know for certain that I will be returning. I am also with a heavy heart to again have to leave my home in Mississippi. I love the South, my family, and friends, and after seeing what remains after Katrina, it is that much harder to leave. I only hope that the hurricanes steer clear of this area in the upcoming season so that everyone has time to rebuild and recover in peace.

For Garber!

This is a short post for my good friend Josh Garber! He will be married soon... in the Virgin Islands. I'm not sure how Sheila, his fiance, is able to put up with him, but it seems to be working out well for them! Josh, I hope you're happy that I gave you a shout out on my blog! Stay in touch.... buddy.

This is the only picture of Josh I have on my computer! He only dresses like this when he goes to his Sig Ep fraternity meetings!

Recovery

Two weeks post surgery, I'm getting around really well. Last Tuesday I had an appointment with my surgeon. He told me that I had a cyst in front of the broken bone. The cyst was benign and the bone was "dying." But, that's all been removed, so I guess this means that I'll be up and running in no time! Now that I'm getting up and moving around, things are looking up. I'll get my stitches out tomorrow, which will help with my walking.

On a different note, the day before yesterday, I took a ride down the beach, past my old house. The house is going to be knocked down this week. It was surreal to go there. I saw my old home completely destroyed. The windows were all broken, the house had big holes in it where the water crashed through. Most of the other houses on the beach are gone, which is impossibly difficult to see. Our bridge is tattered and unusable. I have yet to make it to Biloxi to see the beach there, which I hear is even worse. But really only worse because all of the historic buildings are gone. Visiting friends and family who are living after the storm has been strange. People who used to live in wonderful homes are now living in FEMA trailers. People are living in their old homes without kitchens, alongside racoons and birds who have taken over the house. People are so amazingly resilient. They have survived the actual storm and are now dealing with the storm that remains. It's just so insane being here now. In so many ways, I wish I could have been here when this all happened. Though I've loved my life in Cape Verde, I feel as if I could have helped more here than there.